Black Diamond Venom Ice Axe

Pros: Fairly lightweight, with a very well-balanced swing. It plunges and self-arrests very well. The slightly bent shaft provides additional clearance over snow/ice. The tech pick provides good balance between technical performance on ice/hard snow and self-arrest capability, but can be switched out if a less-aggressive pick is preferred.

Cons: Not as lightweight as Black Diamond's Raven Pro, which is better suited for lightweight ounce-counters engaging in moderate climbing. Not as effective - in terms of technical ability on harder ice and mixed climbs - as some of the other tools on the market.

This ice axe fills a very interesting niche. It is technical enough to be used on almost anything but the hardest pure ice and mixed routes. However, the Venom's shaft and spike still plunges for boot-axe belays and moderate slopes, and either pick (comes with two interchangeable) self-arrests with just as much purchase as any classic mountaineer's piolet.

I used this axe on my latest climb on Shasta, and was very impressed by how well it performed. The 64cm was not too short, not too long. I had the adze (not the hammer), and switched out the regular pick for the tech pick. The swing of the tool was perfect for steeper, consolidated slopes, and Black Diamond's tech pick has excellent bite in hard snow and ice. However, using the ice axe as a walking-aid while climbing the moderate slopes of Shasta was a total breeze, and the shaft plunges easily and securely for a boot-axe belay, self-belay, etc. The leash that comes with the Venom is easy to cinch on the wrist with one hand, and can be easily loosened the same way. While swinging overhead, the leash actually does a great job of supporting the wrist and hand comfortably.

If you're going to be primarily climbing nothing but moderate snow, and need a classic mountaineering axe without any crossover capability into the technical world, I would choose something a little bit lighter (why not?). Otherwise, it would seem to me that the Venom is the perfect hybrid ice axe/technical tool for moderate and intermediate routes in our Cascades. A good combo of tools to consider would be the Venom (adze) with a regular pick, and a Venom (hammer) with the tech pick!

Props to Black Diamond - I almost never fail to be impressed by the scope of their R & D, and all of their gear's functional simplicity.

View our selection of Ice Axes and Mountaineering Equipment here!

Black Diamond Octane Pack

28L, 1,700 cu in.
2lbs 11oz.
(size Medium)

Outside Magazine's Gear of the Year Award Winner: 2010

Pros: Lightweight, but able to carry weight easily. A lack of extraneous features and a streamlined top-loading design makes 28L feel more like 35L - this allows a surprising amount of gear to be stuffed inside. External stretch pocket makes storage of rain jacket/map/snacks very easy. The new ErgoActive suspension system carries like a dream - comfortable, adjustable, even feels good on the rock, over a laden harness. The Octane's simplicity and functionality stood out constantly.

Cons: Not many! The hipbelt sticks out from the pack, and if not strapped around your hips tightly, it can get in the way during casual use (though it is easily removed for storage). The pack doesn't have as many internal organizing compartments as some other models, but this was never a real issue. A friend complained that the shoulder straps needed some additional padding, but I didn't find this to be an issue either.

The Black Diamond Octane is a superb piece of wearable technology. It is large enough to stuff an entire sport rack, your rope, snacks, and water inside - and it carries 25-35 pounds with superb comfort and mobility. The ErgoActive suspension really does feel like an extension of your body - hipbelt and shoulder harness all moving in stride. I scrambled over scree piles and hiked up steep hills with it stuffed, and I really felt the suspension system working. The load is easily stabilized and compressed with external compression straps, and organization is simplified by an external stretch pocket and a small hipbelt pocket. There is a small top zip for your nick-nacks as well. Trekking poles are easily secured to the pack, and there is a small sleeve inside for your hydration bladder.

Though this pack really excells on large day trips and ultralight multi-day missions in a hiking context, it is durable enough to be used for local cragging too, and is even snazzy enough to be used around town. The 210d nylon face fabric is definitely ultralight (whole pack weighs in at 2lbs 11oz, size medium), but it can definitely take a beating, and it is very weatherproof to boot. Don't worry about durability with the Octane - Black Diamond knows how to make their gear. This pack was used all day every day, for three days of Yosemite adventure. It carried a 25 -30 lb mix of supplies and climbing gear, and every person who carried it was incredibly stoked. I consistently found it challenging to pack the thing to the brim! It is deceptively large.

All things considered, The Black Diamond Octane gets a rave review. It is one of the most intelligently designed large day packs on the market. I've used 35L packs that feel smaller than they are, and the Octane is the exception - the most bottomless 28L pack that i've ever used. If you do long day missions, ultralight solo trips, provide day supplies for a group, or need an all-inclusive rucksack for moving over tough terrain quickly, then the Octane is perfect for you.

See our pack selection here!

Black Diamond Frietchi Freeride

I know. I know. It's still summer time and I am reviewing a piece of gear for a winter sport. But, if your anything like me and/or my friends the ski and snowboard video's have already found their way to the DVD player; which, means that winter is coming up around the bend and it's time to start deciding what new piece's of gear I will need to get shrednasty soon.



Currently for my AT (Alpine Touring) setup I use the BD Freitchi Freeride Binding because I think it is an awesome binding and I love it! I run the binding on my BD Megawatt ski. It took me a couple of day's in the backcountry to get completely familiar with how to utilize the different climbing positions easily and quickly. Once I was able to achieve all the climbing positions as well as lock/unlock the biding in and out of the climbing position my appreciation for the binding increases significantly.



The added mental security that I get from the Freeride is the fact that it looks like a traditional alpine binding. I quit alpine skiing when I was a mere 11 years old, so when I picked up AT skiing last season the mental comfort and familiarity was a big deal for me. I found simplicity in it and this allowed me to focus on my skiing and not on screwing around with my gear.



The DIN range is large enough that it can be set for a beginner skier all the way up to an advanced skiier. I haven't had any issue with snow or ice building up in the binding so I haven't experienced any issue with not being able to get my boots locked in or out of the binding.



Another feature that I really like on the Freeride is the break. Now, you can get a break or leash for any binding and they are required if you want to ride frontcountry, but I really like the Freeride's.



The negative aspect to the Freeride binding is it's overall weight, and I would argue that it's not very sexy but that's a completely different post. Yes, it's heavier then it's competitors, and I believe that I will switch to one of the new bindings in a season or two. However, for now the weight is not an issue for me.

Black Diamond Megalight

I'm going to list all the reasons I love the Megalight tent from Black Diamond.

1) size and weight: This is a four-person tent that matches size and weight specs of most bivy sacks. For a group shelter, you barely even notice it. I would bring it on a day hike if I thought it would rain, just to have shelter for eating lunch. Enough said.



2) dryness: unless you're in a torrential downpour over impermeable soil, the megalight is actually dryer than most tents. You can put it away wet, drop it in a lake, and set it up in the rain. But once you set it up, everything's dry inside and will stay that way. Just don't touch the sides.

3) convenience: It sets up faster than any other tent I've ever used. Put four stakes in the ground, crawl inside, and raise the pole. Job done. Then due to the floorless design, you can hang out inside with your shoes on and not get your sleeping area dirty. You can even set up a chair inside to cook and read.

4) versatility: Another benefit of the floorless design is that you don't need to pitch it on the ground. You can set it up high above a picnic table to cook and relax under. I like to set it up on top of my raft or dory in the summer so I can still sleep on my boat when it rains. I know many people who prefer the megalight when backcountry skiing because you can dig into the snow below it, shaping shelves, sleeping platforms, and a 10' x 10' area of standing room.



The megalight is the dryest, lightest, fastest, and most spacious tent I've ever used. But as a disclaimer, here are some things it is not:

quiet: the sil-nylon material is extremely loud on a windy night, so look for a protected site
bug-proof: use the available mega-bug mosquito net if you're in bug country
airy: it just doesn't breathe. The sides get a lot of condensation at night if you close the door, so be very careful bumping the sides in your down bag.

Follow these guidelines and you're bound to be happy with this tent. Sleep well!



See our selection of Tents here!

Reviewed by: Dan Thurber

Black Diamond Megawatts

I first learned to ski before I can remember at the Mount Lassen Ski resort. When I was 11 I decided that skiing was no longer cool and that snowboarding was where it was at. My primary reason for shifting was because my older brother started to snowboard, and therefore that was what I had to do. I have been a true-and-true snowboarder since. I have taught lesson's for a total of six years, and I have coached on my local high school snowboard team the last three years.

This season I decided to start getting into the backcountry scene. I took out a Voile SD Mojo 161 split board the first time I went, and had a lot of fun. However, the second and third time I took it out I had less and less fun. I found myself getting more and more frustrated with the process of taking it apart and putting it back together. These experiences lead me to make the decision of getting back into skiing for a more efficient backcountry setup. First, rode the Black Diamond Havoc. Second, I rode the Black Diamond Verdict, third, I rode the Black Diamond Joule's. I had a lot of fun riding all three of those ski's, but I noticed they were really still. Fourth, I rode the Line Sir Francis Bacon's, and I feel, like a school boy, in love with reverse camber ski's.

All of that information is a catalyst for me to talk about what I really want to talk about which is the Black Diamond Megawatt Ski.

The Megawatt spec's:
Length: 188
Tip: 153
Underfoot: 125
Tale: 130
Weight: 10lbs 6oz (pair)

My initial impression of this ski was, "holy shit that is big!" I was very concerned about being able to steer it. However, with the zero camber and the rocker tip the ski is amazing in every condition I have taken it into. On the groomers and hard-pack the rocker saves my ass because it takes my effective edge from 188 down to 140, so it's as if I am skiing a shorty ski. In the crud, tracked and UN-tracked powder the length float's me over and through everything.



First time climbing with it was the really telling experience. In order for the Megawatt to satisfy my desire's it had to be able to get me out in the backcountry. The first time I took it out in the backcountry (read about the trip) I had a blast! I didn't notice the weight be to excessive or arduous for the climb, and I was more then happy to be riding it on the way down.

It looks big and intimidating, and well it is big, but don't be intimidated by it! With the big wide platform the ski is extremely stable and with the side-cut and rocker it performs great on all snow conditions you might encounter.

The Megawatt is my ski! At least until BD comes out with something bigger and better.