Petzl Sama Climbing Harness

Orange. Refined.

Also highly breathable.

According to Petzl's advertising, masochists gave this an awful review.

I can see why they would do this, as the thing barely even seems like something you would wear over your clothes - it doesn't accumulate sweat. It doesn't chafe, and doesn't get in the way.

Pros: Price. $69.95 is a good deal for a high-quality all-around harness. Breathability. Lightweight and packability (though the Hirundos is still the ultralight). Comfort under a pack belt. Snug fit - leg loops that are tight but not uncomfortable, as can happen with fixed length loops (the elastic provides some give). Four gear loops make it perfect for trad or sport, especially alpine stuff. The belay loop/crotch interface is super bomber and really hard to screw up - and that loop is tough and burly, two synonymous terms that are most important for all things climbing related.

Cons: Not very many. I had to think creatively to write this part. If you prefer attaching a chalk bag with a biner rather than a belt, the back loop is a bit funky. Petzl harnesses don't have rated rear loops like Black Diamond harnesses. Personally, I use a belt with my chalk bag, so it wasn't an issue. Fixed leg loops may cause fit issues for some? The Sama comes in Small, Medium, and Large. I found that Petzl's Size 1 harness fits such a huge waist range that the possibility for screwing up fit with the Corax and etc is tough. However, be careful when sizing this harness. Bring in your climbing slacks and kicks and try. it. on. The leg loops on the size Small fit me perfectly - I'm 155 lbs, 6'0" with slimmer legs and a 30" waist. That's a size small. The gear loops occasionally withstand all attempts to find them (only the rear-most ones), due to the fact that they tend to lay flat to the waist band. Really, however, it just takes some getting used to. Once you get it by feel, no problems.

I love this harness. My favorite harness ever is without a doubt the Petzl Corax, however the Sama comes in a very, very close second. If I get out climbing more often in it I might even change this opinion. It's lighter, more breathable, super comfy, and the mesh panels that have been machined out of the waist belt actually make for a waist belt that wraps more securely around your waist. This even weight distribution makes carrying moderate to heavy weight on the harness a total breeze. It's so light! Why would you ever want to carry more weight?! The waist belt is also slim enough that the harness can be worn in a mountaineering context as well, under a pack belt when necessary.

The thing is bright orange, with a green belay loop. It's breathable, comfortable, simple, and it has four gear loops. If you need anything else, i'd think about your priorities.

Thanks to Petzl, once again, for creating superb climbing equipment.

Petzl Corax Climbing Harness

Both Petzl and Black Diamond make climbing equipment of incredible quality. Arc'teryx also makes some really incredible lightweight harnesses - ideal for gym climbers or dedicated lightweight sport climbers. Don't let this review influence your personal preferences too much - there are many comparable harnesses from many different climbing manufacturers, and comfort and usability should be priorities when choosing a sit-harness.

I found the Petzl Corax to be one of the best climbing harnesses I've used, both in terms of comfort and load-bearing ability. I've climbed in the Metolius Safetech, Black Diamond's Momentum and Bod, Petzl's Sama and Adjama - the Corax is amazingly comfy, not too expensive, and it can handle as much gear as you want to carry.

Pros: Padded, incredibly comfortable to hang in. Can handle more gear than you need, comfortably. Has a double-adjustable waist, with two auto-locking buckles (allows you to really fine tune the fit). The Size 1 Corax fits an incredible range of waists (28-35ish) Durability, durability, durability - This thing is bomber, from the design of the leg loops and wasitbelt to the belay loop, it won't let you down one bit.

Cons: Not as lightweight or low-profile as Petzl's lighter trad and sport harnesses, such as the Sama or the Hirundos. If looking to wear under a pack for alpine climbing or ski mountaineering, consider something less bulky. The Corax is not as breathable as these more mesh-constructed harnesses either, though the difference is fairly minimal in my opinion.





This harness is comfy for pitch after pitch of sport, trad, and as many hanging belays as you can handle! four gear loops, padded legs and waist, auto-locking buckles, and a brilliant green belay loop. Nice job, Petzl.

Check out our full selection of harnesses and climbing equipment on our website!

Petzl Tikka XP 2 Headlamp

Pros: Lightweight, incredibly bright, competatively priced. Long battery life, but without added bulk of an external battery pack above your neck. Versatile modes - spotlight, floodlight, blinkers, and red LED for your star chart or secret missions. The recent redesign to a single LED provides for longer battery life in economic mode, and more lumens!

Cons: Witnessed a complaint that the push-button switch (push once, twice, three times to cycle through lamp modes) is annoying, but I didn't find this to be an actual issue for me. Maybe i'm just used to Petzl lamps? Also, some have complained that purple is really lame. This is not true at all. It is a fact that purple is very cool. Petzl does offer the Tikka XP 2 in Graphite (Grey) if purple isn't really your thing though.

I've found that this little headlamp is absolutely superb. Lightweight, burly and bright. In the economic (least bright) setting, the Tikka XP 2 provides 160 hours of burn time. I found the economic setting to be plenty bright for just about everything - reading, pumping water, cooking, hiking at night. The full brightness setting I reserve for times when you really need it - rock climbing, alpine climbing, skiing, spot-lighting something in the distance. I'd go through one set of regular Energizer AAAs in periods of 3-4 months. Maybe longer actually. Anyways, quite a long time.

The Tikka XP 2 is light enough to still be an option for thru hikers and casual backpackers alike, but rugged, efficient and bright enough to be useful in the alpine. Battery life does suffer in the cold (under freezing), and I noticed this on Shasta, Bailey and Mt. Ashland on several occasions. However, this can be easily bypassed by switching regular AAAs for lithium batteries, and this is pretty much true for any headlamp on the market. If you're going Caving or heading on a big trip to the Karakorum, South America, Alaska, or some place where extra batts might be tougher to find, and the cold is more severe - go with Petzl's Myo XP (designed for extreme environments). For anything in the U.S., I feel that this little purple headlamp is perfect.

The Wide Angle diffuser lens flips up easily with one hand when you need a floodlight, and can be flipped back down at a moment's notice to gain the added distance of Petzl's impressive spotlight. I found that I was able to do this with mitts on, even. The small tab on the lens is easy to grab. I definitely noticed that the redesigned single white LED provides a significant increase in both battery life and illumination when compared to the original. I've used both the classic Tikka XP and Tikka Plus, and truly feel that Petzl is innovating, not simply donning new flair.

The Tikka XP 2 is priced lower than most expedition headlamps, but is a little bit more expensive than your entry level lamp - They retail for $54.95.

This is the one headlamp I use for just about everything. I haven't really experienced anything negative about it in the last year. Go Petzl!

See our selection of headlamps here.

Black Diamond Octane Pack

28L, 1,700 cu in.
2lbs 11oz.
(size Medium)

Outside Magazine's Gear of the Year Award Winner: 2010

Pros: Lightweight, but able to carry weight easily. A lack of extraneous features and a streamlined top-loading design makes 28L feel more like 35L - this allows a surprising amount of gear to be stuffed inside. External stretch pocket makes storage of rain jacket/map/snacks very easy. The new ErgoActive suspension system carries like a dream - comfortable, adjustable, even feels good on the rock, over a laden harness. The Octane's simplicity and functionality stood out constantly.

Cons: Not many! The hipbelt sticks out from the pack, and if not strapped around your hips tightly, it can get in the way during casual use (though it is easily removed for storage). The pack doesn't have as many internal organizing compartments as some other models, but this was never a real issue. A friend complained that the shoulder straps needed some additional padding, but I didn't find this to be an issue either.

The Black Diamond Octane is a superb piece of wearable technology. It is large enough to stuff an entire sport rack, your rope, snacks, and water inside - and it carries 25-35 pounds with superb comfort and mobility. The ErgoActive suspension really does feel like an extension of your body - hipbelt and shoulder harness all moving in stride. I scrambled over scree piles and hiked up steep hills with it stuffed, and I really felt the suspension system working. The load is easily stabilized and compressed with external compression straps, and organization is simplified by an external stretch pocket and a small hipbelt pocket. There is a small top zip for your nick-nacks as well. Trekking poles are easily secured to the pack, and there is a small sleeve inside for your hydration bladder.

Though this pack really excells on large day trips and ultralight multi-day missions in a hiking context, it is durable enough to be used for local cragging too, and is even snazzy enough to be used around town. The 210d nylon face fabric is definitely ultralight (whole pack weighs in at 2lbs 11oz, size medium), but it can definitely take a beating, and it is very weatherproof to boot. Don't worry about durability with the Octane - Black Diamond knows how to make their gear. This pack was used all day every day, for three days of Yosemite adventure. It carried a 25 -30 lb mix of supplies and climbing gear, and every person who carried it was incredibly stoked. I consistently found it challenging to pack the thing to the brim! It is deceptively large.

All things considered, The Black Diamond Octane gets a rave review. It is one of the most intelligently designed large day packs on the market. I've used 35L packs that feel smaller than they are, and the Octane is the exception - the most bottomless 28L pack that i've ever used. If you do long day missions, ultralight solo trips, provide day supplies for a group, or need an all-inclusive rucksack for moving over tough terrain quickly, then the Octane is perfect for you.

See our pack selection here!

Jetboil 1.5L Pot

If there is one flaw about the Jetboil it is the small amount of water you can boil at a time in the Personal Cook System. For solo trips it never becomes an issue, and if you plan correctly for two people you can make it work. However, if you want to use the Jetboil for three or more people or even just to cook larger meals with it is surprisingly weak. Even Jetboil new this, and is why they came out with the Group Cooking System and why they made a 1.5 Liter pot and a frying pan available/compatible for the PCS unit.



You need to buy the Pot Stabilizing Kit, which comes with the adaptor that allows the pot to sit on top of the burner, and it also comes with a little tripod leg system that attaches to the canister. Both pieces fit smoothly inside the PCS along with your fuel canister. Personally, I think that the leg system is worth it's weight in gold. I don't use my Jet Boil without it anymore. The pot attachment is also nice because you can use any pot or pan on it.



Once you have your Stabilizing Kit you can use the Jet Boil pot. The benefit the Jet Boil pot has over it's competitors is the same heating coil system that is on the PCS. It distributes the heat surprisingly well, and while it doesn't cook or boil as fast as the PCS it is still a lot faster then a normal pot. Unfortunately the lid warps with heat, so it becomes hard to put it back on securely when your done cooking with it. What I started doing with it was turning the lid upside down while cooking. Doing so seems to warp the lid less and because it maintains it shape more it is easy to put back on.



The only other thing I don't really like about the pot system is that the burner doesn't fit inside it. One of the major benefits of the Jetboil is the packability of the entire system within itself, and you loose that when you want to take the pot. Now, most of the time you can pack other items in the pot (you can fit three of the new MSR Mugs in it) so it isn't a big deal, but it is still a down side for me.



In the end, the Jetboil team has created an awesome system and the additional attachments have all been well thought out and work exceptionally well. I don't see the need to ever own another stove system for non high altitude use.

Mammut Borah DLX

Yes I do wear my Chaco's for the better part of the year. Yes I do wear Croc's when I go climbing. No I do not always take the best care of my feet or worry about my footwear. Which is why I have never owned a pair of approach shoes before. However, I rescently spent some time thrashing a pair of the Mammut Borah DLX in Moab Utah, and like all the other Mammut gear I have used so far, it impressed me.

Initial Impression(s):
They are not a light or breathable shoe. The asymetrical shape isn't the same fit I'm use to.



Main Points of Notice
They offer a solid and ridged footbed for maximum support along with an Ortholite Insole which makes the shoe very comfortable for extended periods of time. The Vibram Rubber sole offers surprising traction in most every condition you will encounter on you approach or day hiking. The are a very durable shoe that is going to last you a long time. And, most importantly, they look cool!



Conclusion
The amount of grip while scrambling on every surface from very slippery sand stone to granite was shocking. For the first time I understood why people wore approach shoes instead of their Croc's. I'm still not completely sold on them being more supportive, but I definitely think the added grip and overall foot protection and this is reason enough for me to switch over to using them on a regular bases.



The Borah DLX is offered for men and women and costs $119. Overall I think they are well worth the cost and will not disappoint.

Buy them Here!

Mammut Smart

At first it was difficult to accept the fact that one could have an auto-locking belay device with no mechanical parts. When I first got hold of the Smart, I was amazed by how light and simple the device appeared. Setup and disassembly is very straight forward, just like almost all other belay and repel devices.

In actual use, the device shows its true colors as a smooth and functional sport climbing tool. However, there was a little difficulty in learning the appropriate hand motions to really gain any advantage with the device. The major breakthrough to understanding its true potential was in reading its instructions, then looking at the illustrations. If you look at the illustrations first you get the impression of using the device in a certain fashion that does not really turn out the way one expects. By reading about the operation of the device, then looking at the illustrations, I really began to understand how the device worked and how to use it to best affect.

The Smarts "lever" is really not a lever in a sense you have to rotate the device. It works best as a "hook" that you use to "push" against to control the amount of friction you feel on the rope. By using both hands, one on the "hook", the other on the brake side of the rope, lowering can be as smooth as any belay device found in use. Which everyone really wants in an auto-locking belay device anyway.

I am extremely impressed with my Smart. It is the perfect secondary belay device in any sport rack.

Mammut TX-1

Lately I have been rather unimpressed with new gear that has come out on the market. Not that it isn't good stuff, but none of it has really gotten me excited. It seems like it is just all the same and it has me bored. So, when we got in the Mammut TX-1 headlamp initially I wasn't that excited, and thought to myself "it's just another headlamp." However, upon using the TX-1 my whole universe changed.



The Lucido technology that Mammut uses is amazing. The square beam is by far the longest reaching concentrated beam of light I have ever experienced from a headlamp. Mammut claims that the beam reaches 105 meters. It is probably one of the few headlamp beam claims I believe, agree with, and support.

Frank using his TX-1 in a cave

This winter I used it backcountry skiing at night, hiking, camping, and on early morning mountain biking rides. I can honestly say that I was never once disappointed with how this headlamp performed. It just didn't matter what the conditions were the TX-1 was able to provide me with the adequate light. I also enjoyed sitting around the camp at night and challenging friends to a beam off contest to see who's beam stretched further into the night. I always won!

One of my favorite non-light features is that you can flip the head of the lamp (i.e. where the on/off switch is) into the housing. This feature protects the headlamp face from scratching in your pack as well as from turning on and draining your batteries.

Getting back from an early morning Mt Bike Ride

My major complaint is that it is more bulky then I would like it to be. I'm not a big fan of the battery case on the back.

Pros
Awesome Beam
Battery Life indicator on the back
Multiple light settings

Cons
Size & Weight

Spech's
Battery Life max: 180hrs
Light Range max: 105m
Weight: 95g / 150g with batteries
LED Type: 1 x HiFlux.LED, 2 x Definition.LED
Flood-Light HIGH: 14m
Flood-Light LOW: 7m
Dual-Light: 105m
Batteries: 3AA

Check out our selection of Headlamps HERE!

Black Diamond Megalight

I'm going to list all the reasons I love the Megalight tent from Black Diamond.

1) size and weight: This is a four-person tent that matches size and weight specs of most bivy sacks. For a group shelter, you barely even notice it. I would bring it on a day hike if I thought it would rain, just to have shelter for eating lunch. Enough said.



2) dryness: unless you're in a torrential downpour over impermeable soil, the megalight is actually dryer than most tents. You can put it away wet, drop it in a lake, and set it up in the rain. But once you set it up, everything's dry inside and will stay that way. Just don't touch the sides.

3) convenience: It sets up faster than any other tent I've ever used. Put four stakes in the ground, crawl inside, and raise the pole. Job done. Then due to the floorless design, you can hang out inside with your shoes on and not get your sleeping area dirty. You can even set up a chair inside to cook and read.

4) versatility: Another benefit of the floorless design is that you don't need to pitch it on the ground. You can set it up high above a picnic table to cook and relax under. I like to set it up on top of my raft or dory in the summer so I can still sleep on my boat when it rains. I know many people who prefer the megalight when backcountry skiing because you can dig into the snow below it, shaping shelves, sleeping platforms, and a 10' x 10' area of standing room.



The megalight is the dryest, lightest, fastest, and most spacious tent I've ever used. But as a disclaimer, here are some things it is not:

quiet: the sil-nylon material is extremely loud on a windy night, so look for a protected site
bug-proof: use the available mega-bug mosquito net if you're in bug country
airy: it just doesn't breathe. The sides get a lot of condensation at night if you close the door, so be very careful bumping the sides in your down bag.

Follow these guidelines and you're bound to be happy with this tent. Sleep well!



See our selection of Tents here!

Reviewed by: Dan Thurber

Jetboil Personal Cooking System

The Jetboil Personal Cooking System is one of the most convenient, versatile pieces of cookware out there. I thought they were silly and unnecessary until I went on a particular long winter raft trip. Everyday I watched enviously as another rafter cooked up soup, brewed fresh coffee, and warmed up right there on his raft. I picked up my own Jetboil soon thereafter and have been a fan ever since. Being self-contained is one of the Jetboil's nicest features. The stove, fuel, and most accessories fit snugly inside the the cook pot. You don't have to worry about keeping track of all the pieces. And once set-up, the system is equally mobile. The fuel, stove, and mug all lock together and can be moved around without disrupting your cooking, allowing you to heat water in your car, on a raft, or even skydiving if you could figure out a good windscreen....

By itself, the Jetboil is only good for heating water or warming up canned soup, rather than cooking a full meal. But really, that's all most camp cooking consists of. And if you want a more versatile stove, you can add on the pot support and use it like any other gas burner. The french press add-on gives you a great coffee maker and the hanging kit makes it even more versatile when level ground is a luxury. All of these accessories make the system even more dynamic without adding any space or much weight.



One downside to the Jetboil is the dependence on disposable fuel canisters. But with how efficiently it boils water, I only go through a few cans per year. And contrary to popular belief, the cans are recycleable if you punch a hole in the side. I've also found compatible fuels available in foreign countries, so it can travel internationally with you.



My Jetboil lives in my car and comes with me on nearly all backcountry adventures. I've found that the mere convenience of the system makes me use it more often. It's unbeatable for coffee, tea, soup, pasta, and the entire freeze-dried pantry. You won't find one of these used because owners love them. You will too.

View our stove selection here!

Reviewed by: Dan Thurber.

Petzl Attache

Pros
A compact, light weight carabiner; still big enough to roll a munther hitch through. ther perfect locking biner for belaying, rappelling, anchors, and more. Personally, it is the only locking carabiner I have in my rack because of its stellar performance and versatility.

Cons
If you leave home without it!

Reviewer: Frank

Mountain Hardwear Windstopper Tech Jacket

Pros
A great light weight, warm, and versatile piece. Perfect in a range of conditions from cool summer nights to part of your layering system for mountaineering. Plus it is very stylish for a night out on the town or just a beer at your favorite pub.

Cons
None! At least that we have discovered yet.

Reviewer: Frank

Petzl Reverso3

Pros
Hands down, one of the single most versatile belay devices on the market! A single piece body keeps it light weight and strong. Smooth operation for top rope, lead, and top belay. Easy to use, easy to release, and brakes really well.

Cons
Thicker diameter rope (>10.2) is a little tough to get into device.

Reviewer: Frank