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Monday, August 16, 2010

Suunto Vector


Pros: Highly water-resistant. Easy to read digital display, containing both simple visual indicators and clear numbers. Holds altitude data accurately over time/descent/ascent, provides very accurate absolute and sea level barometric data - in terms of both overnight accumulation and change during the day. The compass works flawlessly, is very accurate, and is really easy to use and keep calibrated. It comes in some cool colors too.

Cons: Plastic bezel is hard to rotate, and small particles have a tendency to get caught between the bezel and the watch body. The alarm function is sort of quiet, decibel-wise. Don't wear it on your wrist if you're a light sleeper and you have to get up super early. I would have to remove it if I didn't want to sleep through the alarm. The watch is not very intuitive to use at first, though the instruction manual is very thorough. Ascent/descent history seems to provide inconsistent data, though it has recorded history of high-points, summit proof, etc. Note that water-resistant is not synonymous with immersion waterproof - buttons cannot be pushed under water! Beyond that, however, I never take the thing off - showers, swimming, hot water, etc. It handles it all.

Let me clarify - I am new to the world of Altitude/Barometer/Compass watches.

So far, I feel like I've learned quite a bit about the technology - the advantages and disadvantages of certain instruments/inclement conditions, etc.

I've used the Suunto Vector for alpine climbing in our local area (Shasta, lesser peaks), many backpacking and climbing trips in southern Oregon and northern California wilderness areas, and several backcountry ski trips. I can honestly say that the Vector is very much worth its quoted price of $199.00. Every dollar of it! However, the slightly more expensive Suunto Core would be a worthwhile upgrade in several ways - I'll get to this in a minute.

Let me rave about the compass a little bit. Really easy to take bearings/headings on the fly. It has turned out to be really useful for backcountry skiing, backpacking or trekking cross-country, and any sort of alpine climbing. Suunto just did an awesome job with their digital compass. Also - really easy to use with a map. I still bring a classic compass/map with me for every adventure, but I haven't had to pull that little plastic square out in a long time. Calibration is as easy as several pushes of the button and spinning slowly in a circle.


The altimeter works very, very well. You can switch between feet or meters, and set reference altitudes in intervals of ten feet. If you actively keep track of altitude changes, set reference altitudes off an accurate topo, and pay attention to what the barometric pressure is doing, you will be absolutely stoked on how accurate the altimeter is. Otherwise, I only noticed discrepancies of 50-100 feet. With relatively stable barometric pressure, however, the altimeter almost without fail managed to keep accurate altitude data (the altimeter and the barometer share the same pressure sensor). You can track changes in a logbook, and change your intervals for this logbook as well - depending on how fast/slow you are ascending or descending (alpine climbing, ski descents, backpacking, etc).


People questioning your summit or your high point? Keep a thorough approach to using the altimeter - the proof will be in your logbook :)

The barometer also gets thumbs up. I am not a weather man, and this watch does not predict the weather. I don't think you're going to find a watch that does, however.

The Vector does what it was intended to do, and very well. The barometer keeps track of pressure in inches of mercury or bars, both absolute and sea level - it very accurately informs you of what's going on with pressure systems in your area. The logbook automatically accumulates data per hour. Thus, when you wake for your 2-am alpine start, you can double check what the barometric pressure has been doing overnight. On the watch face at all times is a six-hour history of the pressure trend - rising, falling, staying stable? By using a combination of the pressure history, referencing weather reports, paying attention to the six-hour trend indicator, and actively clearing and watching the pressure difference meter, one can really dial in their understanding of what's going to happen with the weather. Barometers are incredibly useful instruments, and Suunto did a good job of designing this wristop computer. They set the standard.

So. Overall the Suunto Vector is great. I have my small gripes about it, as you have read, but they are minor details. The Suunto Core is definitely an upgrade though! Don't purchase either watch without considering advantages/disadvantages. The Core still uses one pressure sensor for altitude/barometric data - but it automatically knows whether you're climbing or stagnant, unlike the Vector. Thus, it does a better job of providing incredibly up-to-date data on either altitude or barometric pressure. The Core is more intuitive to be sure, whereas the Vector acts more like your normal calculator. They can be pretty stupid if you're not paying attention. I've heard people say many times that the Core is 'easier to use than the Vector'. I think the Core also comes in some really cool colors. It looks different and operates a bit differently. One major advantage is also the storm alarm. If the barometric pressure drops drastically in a short period of time, the Core will let you know immediately.

It all depends on how much money you want to spend, and how much you think you'll be using the instrument. Personally, I was just fine with the Vector, and I still consider it one of, if not the best wristop computer for outdoor use. If I one day save some more money, I might buy a Core - but for right now the Vector is awesome - i've taken it on a lot of adventures and will continue to do so!








Wednesday, August 4, 2010

Petzl Sama Climbing Harness








Orange. Refined.

Also highly breathable.

According to Petzl's advertising, masochists gave this an awful review.

I can see why they would do this, as the thing barely even seems like something you would wear over your clothes - it doesn't accumulate sweat. It doesn't chafe, and doesn't get in the way.

Pros: Price. $69.95 is a good deal for a high-quality all-around harness. Breathability. Lightweight and packability (though the Hirundos is still the ultralight). Comfort under a pack belt. Snug fit - leg loops that are tight but not uncomfortable, as can happen with fixed length loops (the elastic provides some give). Four gear loops make it perfect for trad or sport, especially alpine stuff. The belay loop/crotch interface is super bomber and really hard to screw up - and that loop is tough and burly, two synonymous terms that are most important for all things climbing related.

Cons: Not very many. I had to think creatively to write this part. If you prefer attaching a chalk bag with a biner rather than a belt, the back loop is a bit funky. Petzl harnesses don't have rated rear loops like Black Diamond harnesses. Personally, I use a belt with my chalk bag, so it wasn't an issue. Fixed leg loops may cause fit issues for some? The Sama comes in Small, Medium, and Large. I found that Petzl's Size 1 harness fits such a huge waist range that the possibility for screwing up fit with the Corax and etc is tough. However, be careful when sizing this harness. Bring in your climbing slacks and kicks and try. it. on. The leg loops on the size Small fit me perfectly - I'm 155 lbs, 6'0" with slimmer legs and a 30" waist. That's a size small. The gear loops occasionally withstand all attempts to find them (only the rear-most ones), due to the fact that they tend to lay flat to the waist band. Really, however, it just takes some getting used to. Once you get it by feel, no problems.

I love this harness. My favorite harness ever is without a doubt the Petzl Corax, however the Sama comes in a very, very close second. If I get out climbing more often in it I might even change this opinion. It's lighter, more breathable, super comfy, and the mesh panels that have been machined out of the waist belt actually make for a waist belt that wraps more securely around your waist. This even weight distribution makes carrying moderate to heavy weight on the harness a total breeze. It's so light! Why would you ever want to carry more weight?! The waist belt is also slim enough that the harness can be worn in a mountaineering context as well, under a pack belt when necessary.

The thing is bright orange, with a green belay loop. It's breathable, comfortable, simple, and it has four gear loops. If you need anything else, i'd think about your priorities.

Thanks to Petzl, once again, for creating superb climbing equipment.

Monday, August 2, 2010

Big Agnes Seedhouse 2

I love talking about tents.

Tents make me feel excited.

Though I rarely use them (only when it's absolutely necessary, per mosquitoes/inclement weather), I am very picky about design and little details.

Big Agnes is innovating! Seriously - pole design, weights, colors. This is apparent just by looking at their quality catalog and comparing internal measurements with other companies. Their designs give most of their two-three person tents a little bit of a space advantage, both in vestibules and headroom. Even better, their pole/fly designs are bomber!

The Seedhouse Two is Big Agnes's most affordable 2p tent. It weighs in at 3 pounds 12 oz, without a footprint. Big Agnes also makes a Seedhouse SL2 (superlight) version. I considered it, but realized that to make it sufficiently durable for my use I would have to buy the footprint. Besides setting me back an extra 40-60 dollars, it also would have increased the weight to the point of ounce crunching between the 2 and SL2. It turned out to be more worth it to go for the more affordable, slightly heavier model, without a footprint.

Pros: Light, easy to pack. Comes with an awesome stuffsack/pole bag combo that hold up really well. Big Agnes factory ties all cord accessories with bowline knots (which is minor, though really cool). Holds up to wind/rain/hail very well - even mostly sideways stuff. Extremely breathable design! Even after hours of rain. The poles are bomber, and flex easily - I wasn't worried about breaking/bending at all.

Cons: Kinda cramped for two people. The black mesh is really lightweight, so just be careful. There aren't too many cons with this tent. Their heavier/more expensive tents have cross poles that dramatically increase headroom side-to-side, so if this is an issue for you, consider the Emerald Mountain SL2 or the Copper Spur. Folks over 6'2" are going to feel cramped in this tent!

I took the Seedhouse 2 for a demo run in the Trinity Alps Wilderness this past week, and was very impressed with the tent's durability, ease of carrying (3 pounds really isn't that bad), and the design of the fly/body. It took hard rain and hail with ease, and if you pack the poles separately in your pack, the fly and body can be crammed in just about anywhere in your pack.


I was able to fit myself as well as all my gear, pack, shoes, etc into the tent, and sleep comfortably.

Overall, I really recommend this tent to backpackers and the lightweight crowd. It is an affordable, two-person backpacking tent that is very lightweight, yet it doesn't break your bank account. Add a footprint if you're concerned about the floor, though I felt confident without one - and the weight is kept to a minimum this way. The tent can also be pitched fast-fly style, without the tent body. Depends on the bug situation where you're venturing!

Keep it up BA - you guys are doing a great job.


Measurements
28 square feet of floor area
8 square feet of vest. area
38" head height
7"x18" packed
$219.95


Browse our selection of backcountry tents on our website!

Monday, July 19, 2010

Petzl Corax Climbing Harness

Both Petzl and Black Diamond make climbing equipment of incredible quality. Arc'teryx also makes some really incredible lightweight harnesses - ideal for gym climbers or dedicated lightweight sport climbers. Don't let this review influence your personal preferences too much - there are many comparable harnesses from many different climbing manufacturers, and comfort and usability should be priorities when choosing a sit-harness.

I found the Petzl Corax to be one of the best climbing harnesses I've used, both in terms of comfort and load-bearing ability. I've climbed in the Metolius Safetech, Black Diamond's Momentum and Bod, Petzl's Sama and Adjama - the Corax is amazingly comfy, not too expensive, and it can handle as much gear as you want to carry.

Pros: Padded, incredibly comfortable to hang in. Can handle more gear than you need, comfortably. Has a double-adjustable waist, with two auto-locking buckles (allows you to really fine tune the fit). The Size 1 Corax fits an incredible range of waists (28-35ish) Durability, durability, durability - This thing is bomber, from the design of the leg loops and wasitbelt to the belay loop, it won't let you down one bit.

Cons: Not as lightweight or low-profile as Petzl's lighter trad and sport harnesses, such as the Sama or the Hirundos. If looking to wear under a pack for alpine climbing or ski mountaineering, consider something less bulky. The Corax is not as breathable as these more mesh-constructed harnesses either, though the difference is fairly minimal in my opinion.





This harness is comfy for pitch after pitch of sport, trad, and as many hanging belays as you can handle! four gear loops, padded legs and waist, auto-locking buckles, and a brilliant green belay loop. Nice job, Petzl.



Check out our full selection of harnesses and climbing equipment on our website!

Friday, July 16, 2010

Sea-To-Summit Pocket Shower

Pros: Super lightweight and packable. Has a large water capacity for how small it packs. Nozzle allows for adjustable flow, and is easy to use.

Cons: Doesn't heat as fast as some similar 'solar' shower models. However, if left all day in the sun, the Pocket Shower provides lukewarm-warm water at the end of a long day of hiking and adventuring!

I think that Sea to Summit did a good job designing this camp shower. The real advantage is the weight - super light, and it packs very small. I don't know about the rest of you, but I hate carrying extra stuff that doesn't get used. It's hard for me to justify even the small amount of extra space it takes to pack a 'shower' on a backcountry trip. That's like... three Clif bars. Extra fuel. Extra coffee.

Anyways. Sea to Summit has designed a small, packable camp shower that also happens to work well! I had to back the nozzle off a little bit at first, as the flow was sort of funky - sort of uneven. After that I got used to how the shower worked, and it was actually quite enjoyable - the flow was adjustable all the way from a tiny trickle to an adequate shower! I left it hanging all day, collecting heat. After a long day, the air-temperature (maybe a bit warmer) water felt really nice. I have to admit that showering outside is much more fun than showering inside. I had forgotten this, since the last time I used an outdoor shower I was somewhere between the age of six and ten.

I'd give this product a good to great review, but my own personal preference is bathing in rivers and lakes! Nothing beats that, in my opinion. However, the shower does exactly what it is designed to do, and it does it well! I can see how this would be very useful on a desert trip especially - areas where running water or larger bodies are scarce, and bathing can be tougher. If given a choice between bringing or not bringing the Pocket Shower on backpacking trips this summer, i'm going to have to go with the latter - as I described though, this is a matter of my own personal preference - no extra nonessential stuff!

If you're looking for a lighter-weight shower that still has great water capacity, then the Sea to Summit Pocket Shower is a great choice. If you really need a shower that gets hot quickly, get a more dedicated solar shower. Otherwise, the combo of price, weight, and simplicity is hard to beat! Props to STS.

Wednesday, July 14, 2010

Black Diamond Venom Ice Axe



Pros: Fairly lightweight, with a very well-balanced swing. It plunges and self-arrests very well. The slightly bent shaft provides additional clearance over snow/ice. The tech pick provides good balance between technical performance on ice/hard snow and self-arrest capability, but can be switched out if a less-aggressive pick is preferred.

Cons: Not as lightweight as Black Diamond's Raven Pro, which is better suited for lightweight ounce-counters engaging in moderate climbing. Not as effective - in terms of technical ability on harder ice and mixed climbs - as some of the other tools on the market.

This ice axe fills a very interesting niche. It is technical enough to be used on almost anything but the hardest pure ice and mixed routes. However, the Venom's shaft and spike still plunges for boot-axe belays and moderate slopes, and either pick (comes with two interchangeable) self-arrests with just as much purchase as any classic mountaineer's piolet.

I used this axe on my latest climb on Shasta, and was very impressed by how well it performed. The 64cm was not too short, not too long. I had the adze (not the hammer), and switched out the regular pick for the tech pick. The swing of the tool was perfect for steeper, consolidated slopes, and Black Diamond's tech pick has excellent bite in hard snow and ice. However, using the ice axe as a walking-aid while climbing the moderate slopes of Shasta was a total breeze, and the shaft plunges easily and securely for a boot-axe belay, self-belay, etc. The leash that comes with the Venom is easy to cinch on the wrist with one hand, and can be easily loosened the same way. While swinging overhead, the leash actually does a great job of supporting the wrist and hand comfortably.

If you're going to be primarily climbing nothing but moderate snow, and need a classic mountaineering axe without any crossover capability into the technical world, I would choose something a little bit lighter (why not?). Otherwise, it would seem to me that the Venom is the perfect hybrid ice axe/technical tool for moderate and intermediate routes in our Cascades. A good combo of tools to consider would be the Venom (adze) with a regular pick, and a Venom (hammer) with the tech pick!


Props to Black Diamond - I almost never fail to be impressed by the scope of their R & D, and all of their gear's functional simplicity.


View our selection of Ice Axes and Mountaineering Equipment here!

Friday, July 9, 2010

Montrail Mountain Masochist



Well. Beside being a fan of alliteration, and the color orange, this shoe really did it for me in a couple other ways as well.


Pros: Incredibly lightweight. Very, very breathable. Outsole has incredible traction on slippery surfaces and rough rock with ease.

Cons: Has a very high-posted heel. Also has a fairly short and narrow heel counter. This could potentially cause problems for certain foot structures. Personally, I like the way the shoe feels. It fits my foot great for running, and even hiking with a cragging pack. I usually wear a 10.5, but sized down to a 10.

I use these shoes as my every day shoe. I found that they provided the right balance of support and weight - with outstanding traction on all types of surfaces. I've used them on approach to the crag, on light hiking trips, on day hikes, during several creek crossings, and for trail running. They get wet at the drop of a hat, but they dry in no time. They even work great while carrying a 35-40 lb pack. I hiked for about six or seven miles with that amount of weight, on a fairly un-maintained trail, and my feet felt perfectly fine. I plan on using them for a 12 day backpacking trip in the Sierra this August.

I also use the Mountain Masochist as my every-day running shoe. I try to run on trail as much as possible with them, but their sole and even flex made them just as comfortable on the pavement. I haven't had any issues with durability or wear and tear - and the more dirt you get on them, the better they look. I did add a pair of the blue Superfeet insoles to them, as the stock insole is fairly flimsy EVA foam. This made them fit even better.

I am very impressed with this shoe.

Personally, I don't care very much for the rest of Montrail's line of footwear. I don't really like the style or the fit of the pairs i've tried. The Mountain Masochist really made an impression on me however - a really solid balance of affordability, weight, support, and traction. I'm convinced that the Mountain Masochist is the most well-designed and lightest trail runner/thru-hiker shoe on the market this season.


Check out our complete line of Men's Footwear here!


Wednesday, June 30, 2010

Petzl Tikka XP 2 Headlamp





Pros: Lightweight, incredibly bright, competatively priced. Long battery life, but without added bulk of an external battery pack above your neck. Versatile modes - spotlight, floodlight, blinkers, and red LED for your star chart or secret missions. The recent redesign to a single LED provides for longer battery life in economic mode, and more lumens!


Cons: Witnessed a complaint that the push-button switch (push once, twice, three times to cycle through lamp modes) is annoying, but I didn't find this to be an actual issue for me. Maybe i'm just used to Petzl lamps? Also, some have complained that purple is really lame. This is not true at all. It is a fact that purple is very cool. Petzl does offer the Tikka XP 2 in Graphite (Grey) if purple isn't really your thing though.



I've found that this little headlamp is absolutely superb. Lightweight, burly and bright. In the economic (least bright) setting, the Tikka XP 2 provides 160 hours of burn time. I found the economic setting to be plenty bright for just about everything - reading, pumping water, cooking, hiking at night. The full brightness setting I reserve for times when you really need it - rock climbing, alpine climbing, skiing, spot-lighting something in the distance. I'd go through one set of regular Energizer AAAs in periods of 3-4 months. Maybe longer actually. Anyways, quite a long time.


The Tikka XP 2 is light enough to still be an option for thru hikers and casual backpackers alike, but rugged, efficient and bright enough to be useful in the alpine. Battery life does suffer in the cold (under freezing), and I noticed this on Shasta, Bailey and Mt. Ashland on several occasions. However, this can be easily bypassed by switching regular AAAs for lithium batteries, and this is pretty much true for any headlamp on the market. If you're going Caving or heading on a big trip to the Karakorum, South America, Alaska, or some place where extra batts might be tougher to find, and the cold is more severe - go with Petzl's Myo XP (designed for extreme environments). For anything in the U.S., I feel that this little purple headlamp is perfect.


The Wide Angle diffuser lens flips up easily with one hand when you need a floodlight, and can be flipped back down at a moment's notice to gain the added distance of Petzl's impressive spotlight. I found that I was able to do this with mitts on, even. The small tab on the lens is easy to grab. I definitely noticed that the redesigned single white LED provides a significant increase in both battery life and illumination when compared to the original. I've used both the classic Tikka XP and Tikka Plus, and truly feel that Petzl is innovating, not simply donning new flair.


The Tikka XP 2 is priced lower than most expedition headlamps, but is a little bit more expensive than your entry level lamp - They retail for $54.95.


This is the one headlamp I use for just about everything. I haven't really experienced anything negative about it in the last year. Go Petzl!


Tuesday, June 29, 2010

Black Diamond Octane Pack


28L, 1,700 cu in.
2lbs 11oz.
(size Medium)

Outside Magazine's Gear of the Year Award Winner: 2010

Pros: Lightweight, but able to carry weight easily. A lack of extraneous features and a streamlined top-loading design makes 28L feel more like 35L - this allows a surprising amount of gear to be stuffed inside. External stretch pocket makes storage of rain jacket/map/snacks very easy. The new ErgoActive suspension system carries like a dream - comfortable, adjustable, even feels good on the rock, over a laden harness. The Octane's simplicity and functionality stood out constantly.

Cons: Not many! The hipbelt sticks out from the pack, and if not strapped around your hips tightly, it can get in the way during casual use (though it is easily removed for storage). The pack doesn't have as many internal organizing compartments as some other models, but this was never a real issue. A friend complained that the shoulder straps needed some additional padding, but I didn't find this to be an issue either.

The Black Diamond Octane is a superb piece of wearable technology. It is large enough to stuff an entire sport rack, your rope, snacks, and water inside - and it carries 25-35 pounds with superb comfort and mobility. The ErgoActive suspension really does feel like an extension of your body - hipbelt and shoulder harness all moving in stride. I scrambled over scree piles and hiked up steep hills with it stuffed, and I really felt the suspension system working. The load is easily stabilized and compressed with external compression straps, and organization is simplified by an external stretch pocket and a small hipbelt pocket. There is a small top zip for your nick-nacks as well. Trekking poles are easily secured to the pack, and there is a small sleeve inside for your hydration bladder.

Though this pack really excells on large day trips and ultralight multi-day missions in a hiking context, it is durable enough to be used for local cragging too, and is even snazzy enough to be used around town. The 210d nylon face fabric is definitely ultralight (whole pack weighs in at 2lbs 11oz, size medium), but it can definitely take a beating, and it is very weatherproof to boot. Don't worry about durability with the Octane - Black Diamond knows how to make their gear. This pack was used all day every day, for three days of Yosemite adventure. It carried a 25 -30 lb mix of supplies and climbing gear, and every person who carried it was incredibly stoked. I consistently found it challenging to pack the thing to the brim! It is deceptively large.

All things considered, The Black Diamond Octane gets a rave review. It is one of the most intelligently designed large day packs on the market. I've used 35L packs that feel smaller than they are, and the Octane is the exception - the most bottomless 28L pack that i've ever used. If you do long day missions, ultralight solo trips, provide day supplies for a group, or need an all-inclusive rucksack for moving over tough terrain quickly, then the Octane is perfect for you.

See our pack selection here!

Tuesday, February 9, 2010

MSR Simmerlite Stove

Pros: efficient, great heat distribution, compact and light, easy field maintenance, doubles as a plastic welding torch in a pinch.

Cons: takes time to prime, bulkier system than butane stoves, lots of parts that can break.

My personal preference for a lightweight stove is the Jetboil PCS. But that is largely because I don’t use one often and it’s convenient when I do. But if I were to need a backcountry stove more than a couple times every year, the pressured fuel canisters would really take a toll on the pocketbook and add a lot to landfills. In that case, the MSR Simmerlite is a great stove. I had one for years and on the occasions I did use it, it proved itself as the best white-gas stove I’ve ever used.

And I was even able to find fuel for it in Peru, so it’s plenty available for most travelers. There are many multi-fuel stoves available with similar functionality, but what is particularly great is the burner on the simmerlite. It burns very completely, which means no soot on your pots and better fuel economy. And more importantly, this burner gives great heat control. So you can actually cook food instead of just-add-water meals. So when you burn the homefries or overcook an egg, you can’t go blaming the equipment this time.

Reviewed by: Dan Thurber

See our Stove selection here.

Thursday, January 28, 2010

Big Agnes Diversion Insulated Air Core....(the green one)

It continues to surprise me just how few of my outdoorsy friends have even heard of the Big Agnes air core sleeping pads. It is hands-down the most comfortable camping mattress I've ever slept on: better than even the 4" Paco Pads typical on rafting trips. And on top of the superior comfort, the BA pads pack down smaller than anything else out there. Rolled up, it's about the size of a bivy sack. They've taken the bulky foam out of conventional camping air mattresses to significantly reduce weight and bulk.



The lack of foam comes with two compromises. The first is warmth - foam is great insulation from body heat conducting into the cold ground. Big Agnes stuffs the pads with synthetic insulation to help, but the reality is that these fibers aren't resilient enough to withstand pad abuse. After about 50 or so cycles of packing and inflating, the insulation doesn't do much but clump up.

The other drawback is that foam self-inflates (at least for a while). With the Air Core you're stuck inflating it by mouth. It's really a small annoyance and takes just a couple minutes to take care of. The extra two minutes each night to make the bed is well-worth the comfort of a good night's sleep.



I think this is going to be the new hot thing in sleeping pads. Get one for yourself or as a gift and lead the trend. Your back will thank you later.

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Reviewed by: Dan Thurber